Common problems with my system

MASONRY FIREPLACE

Misaligned or Damaged Flue Tile:

The tile liners used in most masonry fireplaces are appropriate as long as the fireplace is properly maintained and not exposed to chimney fires. One intense chimney fire will usually crack these tiles, rendering them incapable of performing their intended function. The general rule of thumb is that a masonry fireplace should be cleaned before 1/4" of soot accumulates. If you happen to experience a chimney fire, it is very important to have the chimney swept and inspected prior to any future usage. Even chimneys that have never been used, or never exposed to a chimney fire, may be victims of eroding mortar joints caused by water, or voids created from poor construction. These problems can be left unseen for many years, and they can allow the leaking of water, smoke and/or creosote through the walls of the chimney structure. Frequently, repairs must be made to prevent the water/smoke/creosote access to your home’s combustible and water sensitive materials. Without the use of a VIDEO SCAN device it is nearly impossible to see these severe problems.

Loose or Damaged Firebox:

The firebox takes the majority of a fire's heat, and it requires both the homeowner’s and service technician’s special attention. The firebricks are designed to sustain heat pretty well; however, the joints will fail in time from the constant expansion and contraction. In addition, refractory mortar is specified and seldom used in construction. In a fireplace without a chimney cover the rain water can also pool on the smoke shelf, mix with the soot behind the damper, and form acidic slurry that seeps into the fire-back destroying the mortar joints.

Damper Issues and Benefits:

Most fireplace dampers are located on top of the chimney’s firebox in the “throat”. They are mostly made from cast iron or steel and are susceptible to rust, deterioration, and poor alignment. For these reasons your fireplace can actually cost you money when you’re not even using it! Having a proper damper can help conserve the heat or air-conditioning (depending on the season) within your home. Damper issues are very common and most people are completely unaware of them. Have you ever been able to smell your fireplace on a warm humid day? This could be due to your chimney down-drafting and allowing outside air to enter directly into your home. To further understand this concept please watch this video provided by Lyemance, the industry leader in top sealing dampers. See Video Here.

FACTORY-BUILT FIREPLACES

Cracked or Broken Refractory Panels:

Refractory panels are the lining of your factory built fireplace’s firebox. Their purpose is to reflect the heat away from the fireplace sheet metal and combustibles behind the fireplace. When they are damaged and worn they can no longer perform this as originally intended and should be replaced. This is one area that you, as a homeowner, can monitor quite easily.

Disconnected or Damaged Chimney Sections:

Your factory built fireplace has a metal chimney normally comprised of two or three walls. They come in various lengths and sizes. There are even elbows made for offsets as needed for installations. It is crucial that all the chimney sections be securely fastened, and have the proper clearances from combustibles. These problems are more difficult for you as the homeowner to see, and sometimes cannot be verified without the use of a video scan or invasive inspections.

Chase Covers:

Probably the most visible common problem involves chase covers. You may notice this issue the next time you drive through a neighborhood and look up at the metal covers located on top of the chimneys. There often is rust that runs down the sides of each chimney chase, which then drips on the roof, and destroys the appearance of the homes. These can be replaced with a new chase cover made of 304 Alloy stainless Steel, so they will never rust again. Click here to read more about chase covers.

FIREPLACE INSERTS

Fireplace inserts are special types of wood stoves specifically designed to fit into the firebox (where logs normally go) of an existing fireplace. They use the fireplace flue to vent smoke and other by-products of combustion. Since the insert must be smaller than the fireplace opening, there is usually a surround panel attached to the stove which extends out around the fireplace opening to seal the firebox from room air.

Since 1984 the national codes and standards (as well as many manufacturers’ installation instructions) have stated that a connector pipe must extend from the flue collar outlet of the stove or insert, up through the fireplace damper, and into the first flue tile of the masonry chimney. This connection must have a positive seal as to keep the smoke and creosote from coming down around the outside of the chimney liner. This type of installation, however, is a code MINIMUM. We recommend continuing the lining system up to the top of the chimney flue, as it is more beneficial.

The first and most important reason is safety. During a chimney fire the heat inside the flue would be contained within the liner, and the rest of the structure would be protected by the lining systems insulation. Another beneficial reason for the full reline is the overall performance of the flue and appliance. Most fireplaces have a much larger flue than is required by woodstoves. By just connecting to an existing flue tile you may be creating a problem with excessive creosote production and a greater risk of chimney fire [for example: connecting a 6” diameter pipe to a 12”x12” flue tile]. Lastly, a chimney fire can crack or damage clay flue tile. After this occurs in a “code-minimum installation”, we would be required to remove the existing damaged liner and install a full lining system from the insert to top of the flue.

In conclusion, it is our professional opinion, derived from our many years of experience, that the small cost savings obtained from the installation of a “code-minimum” insert is not worth the risk or added (over time) expenses.